it rains here right now. for about an hour or so a day. i don't mind it so much, yet.
recently i've been reading a lot about Monsanto. the company literally owns the world, and their patent on GE seeds has driven subsistence farmers in India and beyond to suicide, because the poor men can't afford their never-ending cyclic debt. namely, i'm acquiring knowledge to further damn the man.
on wednesday i went on an OVC (orphans and vulnerable children) visit in the local slum, Lancas. It is a branch of AMPATH here that acknowledges the large number of orphaned children due to HIV and works with their care takers to ensure their well-being and adherence to their ARV treatment (when necessary). I walked around for 4 hours with Izaih, a Luo from Kisumu who has lived in Eldoret for the past two decades. He never attended secondary school, but was working for AMPATH as a community health worker. He talked my ear off about Kenyan politics and the historical implications of it all. Following the 2008 post-election violence he feared for his family and moved his wife and two daughters back to Kisumu, keeping only his 4 year old son with him. We disagreed that "Iraqis are bad," and hopefully he at least thought (if only to humor me) that maybe the extreme terrorists didn't actually represent the entire Iraqi population. He raved about Obama and showed me a small picture of him he carried in his wallet. I realized I carried a picture of Obama too (on the metro card from the Inauguration) and gave it to him--it had 3 dollars left on it, so if he ever makes it to D.C. he can afford a one-way fare. so i figure my job here is done. His dream is to open a laundromat and he already has a washing machine!
we visited a little boy, named Juma, who was living with his aunt in a sheet metal hut. he was horribly stunted and at 5 years old was significantly smaller than his 3 year old, HIV-positive cousin, who was doing well on ARVs. the aunt (not being her biological child) wasn't feeding him appropriately and it was Izaih's role to visit every day and make sure he was getting fed. he was sweet and was wearing a denim jacket that was way too big for him with the sleeves rolled up.
ninafurahia kukutena na wewe. i am happy to meet you.

the CHWs and I
the next day 4 of us went into town with one of the guys that works at the center for street kids here to meet with the street girls. we wanted to make friends and see what issues they faced--in the hopes of setting up a public health curriculum for them, but we shall see. the aid world certainly has its politics and i am in the midst of formulating an opinion about it all. but the girls were lovely. high as hell on glue, but nice and curious. we walked through town holding their hands, and we definitely looked like missionaries. not such a bad thing to the locals here, but stereotypical nonetheless. i talked with a girl for awhile who is 21 and pregnant and rocking a "I heart Guinness" t-shirt from 2006. someone, somewhere has done good work--they all knew where to get tested for HIV and where they could find condoms. yet, many of them often cited being raped by other street boys (some as young as 8) and said that in order to sleep in sheltered, "safe" places they often had to give gifts (or sex) to the guards.
we were walking out (successful? hard to say. what did we hope to accomplish?) through the field by the river on the other side of town--called "base" since many street kids live there and bathe, wash their clothes, etc--when Lanawambui (a giggly 7-year old girl with fuzzy hair and a torn skirt) got thrown to the ground and kicked in the face and stomach by another boy (presumably very high on glue). she started wailing. like, what the shit? i lost it. i walked the 100 yards to her while the other boy got beaten (violence with violence?) by the worker we were with. i got teary eyed for the first time since being here. man, it got to me. seeing this little girl get beaten out of the corner of my eye. poverty is digestable after awhile. you look past the sheet metal huts and old clothing because mostly they have smiles and are welcoming and its possible to recognize the prettier things in life, like their company and learning. but shit, violence. i can't handle it. like it just nails me in the gut. i got so pissed. but i'm just a lil mzungu visiting a world of bare survival among children i know nothing about. and i will never know.
violence.
then today we went back to the nearby slum for our urban-real-life-in-kenya visit. and man oh man did it rain. the day consisted of us walking around in 6" of mud (slash fecal matter?) for about 6 hours. no one fell though. and it's nice to walk that slow once in awhile. we visited a local clinic where they do 28 deliveries a month at a cost of KSh 1500--20 dollars--yet many people can't afford it and chose to deliver at home. a woman was in labor while we were there and as we finished our tour in the maternity ward we heard healthy screams of a newborn. we visited a woman who is a local brewer of changa and watched the 80 proof, illegal brew being made. we also sat in her living room and watched an entire dvd of michael jackson music videos. be jealous. we ate lunch with a few local guys and they spoke to us about the post-election violence. they got teary eyed and it was hard to talk about--it became increasingly clear that some were on the side that did the killing and some were on the side that got attacked. they mentioned the church that was burned to the ground with women and children inside, and mentioned the uncertainty that lay ahead with the 2012 election. ultimately, the half dozen or so predominant tribes in kenya all want a chance to hold political power. historically, the kikuyu's (the majority from the central province) have had the power (first with jomo kenyatta and now with kibaki) and the kalinjin's got a piece (with daniel arap moi) but there are others that feel their leaders should have a piece. including a current member of parliament, william ruto--who is idolized for his political prowess and by the fact he shares a name with a large independence fighter-- of the nandi tribe from eldoret. it's slightly difficult to wrap your head around, but the cultural implications on politics and the vertical display of power is unyielding and (infamously) interesting to me. we then cruised around in a P-I-M-P-ed out matatu with lasers and a big screen tv, we hopped out and talked to local men and children and then made it back to town where we got pointed and laughed at for our muddy shoes. (cultural note: kenyans keep their shoes impeccably clean and every half block there are men and boys just waiting with shoe shine and rags to make 'em look like new)

adorable kids and their toys made from bottles
the ladies in the living room
kayla in the kickin' matatu
the (empty) maternity ward
watoto

mud. matope.
this weekend, i am staying here. the ladies are making their way to nairobi and me and my thinning wallet are sitting around town. i plan on watching movies and attempting to get ahead on homework. we shall see how that goes.
and we'll see how this goes: darfur signed an agreement, but you should probably watch this.